Wednesday, January 31, 2007

Santa Cruz Island - January 31, 2007

We woke up this morning anchored in the harbor of the town of Puerto Ayora on the island of Santa Cruz. It is the largest town in the Galapagos with about 15,000 inhabitants. We headed immediately for the Charles Darwin Research Station to see their iguana and tortoise breeding facilities. While there we got to visit the famous “Lonesome George” tortoise. George is the last of his subspecies from Pinta Island. George is in his prime at 80-100 years old but isn’t much interested in female tortoises of any other subspecies. The theory is that George was by himself for many years on Pinta Island before his discovery in the 1970’s and that he was never socialized. So, when George passes on his subspecies will become extinct.

After visiting the Darwin Station we headed into town to mail postcards and visit some shops before heading to a picnic lunch. Judy and I rented bikes to ride from town to lunch. It was only a five mile ride but it was great fun to get in a little exercise.

After lunch we drove into the highlands to see tortoises in the wild. We stopped to see some natural volcanic formations such as lava craters and lava tubes. Both of these geologic features are formed as lava flows retreat. In the case of the craters, the earth above the lava formation eventually collapses and leaves a deep crater. Lava tubes are tunnels that can apparently go on for several kilometers.

The highlight of the day was wandering through a known tortoise crossing route. We encountered a number of them as we walked along including one that a Vermillion flycatcher was using as a base of operations for hunting small insects in the grass.

Weather:
Sunny: 80-90 F

Santa Cruz Island

Birds:
Audubon shearwater
White vented storm petral
Brown pelican
Nazca booby
Magnificent frigate bird
Cattle egret
White-cheeked pintail
Whimbrel
Galapagos dove
Smooth-billed ani
Barn owl
Vermillion flycatcher
Galapagos mockingbird
Yellow warbler
Medium ground finch
Medium tree finch


Other:
Tortoises!!!!!

Isabella and Fernandina Islands - January 30, 2007

We sailed overnight from the south end of Isabella Island to the north end where you can really get a sense of the volcanic origins of the Galapagos archipelago. In the morning we crossed the equator into the Southern Hemisphere and had a little celebration on board.

We took a Zodiac ride along the sheer cliffs of Isabella to look for wildlife and saw our first sea turtles up close as well as a new mammal species, the Galapagos fur seals. Unlike the sea lions the fur seals aren’t that curious about humans and keep their distance. We also caught a sighting of a giant mola mola (ocean sunfish) that leaped out of the water a couple of times and then swam under our Zodiac.

This was our first chance to see two famous bird species here: the Galapagos penguin and the Galapagos cormorant. Both are flightless birds. The cormorant’s wings are nothing but vestiges of normal wings. Then don’t use them to swim while the penguin does use its wings to swim. Then nest in the same areas but eat different kinds of fish and so don’t compete with one another.

I tried to go for a swim but the sea turtles kept getting in the way….. Watching them swim and eat under water was fascinating. Some of them were huge! We also got to see the flightless cormorant swimming underwater.

After snorkeling we weighed anchor and headed for Fernandina Island which is the youngest island in the archipelago (probably less than 300,000 years old). The landscape of the island is mostly jet black lava flow. Here we saw female iguanas nesting and fighting over nesting spots. It was also a great place to see nesting cormorants and some other little shorebirds we hadn’t seen on other islands.

On our way from Isabella to Fernandina we saw a school of hundreds of dolphins leaping out of the water. But perhaps even more special we encountered a sperm whale sunning at the surface. We were fortunate that we were able to get quite close to him and watched him for a few minutes. It had been over a year since the naturalists on board had seen a sperm whale. There are less than 50 or so known to be in the area. We got a great sighting of the fluke just before the whale took a dive for deeper waters.

Tomorrow we head for Santa Cruz Island and will go into the highlands to look for wild tortoises and more of Darwin’s finches!


Weather:
Sunny: 80-85 F; winds variable
Water temperature: 72 F

Isabella Island (north end)

Birds:
Frigate birds
Red tropic bird
Blue footed boobies (diving for fish)

Other cool stuff:
Mola mola
Golden ray (HUGE)
Sperm whale !!!!!
Galapagos fur seal (sea bear)
Galapagos flightless cormorant
Galapagos flightless penguin
Marine iguana
Eastern Pacific sea turtles
Many kinds of fish which I’ll list later (King angel fish, banded blenny, Creole fish, etc.)

Fernandina Island

Birds:
Striated heron
Wandering tattler
Semi-palmated plover
Ruddy turnstone
Galapagos flightless cormorant
Galapagos flightless penguin

Other cools stuff:
Nesting marine iguanas
Sally lightfoot crabs

Tuesday, January 30, 2007

Floreana and Isabella Islands - January 29, 2007

Today we had an early start with a 6 am visit to Post Office Bay on Floreana Island. Floreana was a common stop over point for pirates and whalers. In 1729 a captain of a whaling ship erected a small barrel to serve as a mail drop. Crews bound for home would pick up the mail and take it with them. It is now a tradition to look in the mail barrel and if there is a card or letter for someone near your home you take it with you and hand deliver it. We got a card for someone at Bowdoin College that we’ll need to deliver when we get home.

After breakfast we suited up for a morning of deep water snorkeling off of Champion Island which is a very small island just off Floreana Island. I don’t have any pictures of the snorkeling but the guides took great photos that I will post after we return home. I am not a strong swimmer and am very uncomfortable in water –especially when there is no hope of touching bottom. When I first got out of the Zodiac and looked through the crystal clear water at the steepness of the drop off into darkness I got a little anxious. It took me about five minutes to slow down my breathing. For a few minutes I thought I would have to call it a day before I even got started because the anxiety was getting the best of me. But then I put my mask in the water and looked down and saw a white-tipped shark swim by about 20 feet below me and I forgot all about the fact that I was in the water. As we floated along on the current we were surrounded by large schools of beautiful King angelfish and Yellow-tailed surgeon fish. We encountered a group of sea lions and swam with them for while. They seemed to be quite interested in us and it was amazing to me how close they got without actually bumping into us. One of the young sea lions came up to me and put his nose right in front of my mask and then, with a single flick of his flipper, zipped past me less than an inch away. We all wanted to stay in the water longer but after 90 minutes it did start to feel cold, even with the wet suit for insulation. When we got back to the Polaris the staff had hot chocolate waiting for us!

During lunch we weighed anchor and headed to the southern most tip of Isabella Island to visit a relatively new giant tortoise rearing facility. The tortoise populations were devastated first by whalers who harvested them by the thousands because tortoises could survive for months on board ship without water and the meat is apparently very tasty. When humans settled on some of the islands in the Galapagos they brought goats and donkeys and pigs with them. These animals ate the natural food sources of the tortoises and pushed the populations further into decline. Working to bring the tortoise populations back requires long term vision. It has taken years of research to figure out the most effective strategy for hatching and rearing the young and for re-introducing them into the wild. There is still some poaching of tortoises by locals but educational programs are apparently helping with that problem as well.

If the day wasn’t full enough we had dinner with our on-board National Geographic Explorer, Dr. Sylvia Earle and then saw a preview of a new National Geographic special on the Galapagos Islands that will be released in March. Sylvia Earle is a pioneering deep sea explorer/marine biologist. She was among the first “aquanauts” and the first to walk on the bottom of the ocean floor is a self-contained, pressurized aquanaut suit. She is now working on several ocean conservation projects.

Tomorrow we see more of Isabella Island and also the youngest island in the archipelago, Fernandina.


Weather:
Sunny: 80-85 F; winds variable
Water temperature: 74 F


Floreana Island – Post Office Bay

Birds:
Yellow warbler
Brown pelican
Great blue heron
Galapagos flycatcher
Medium ground finch
Vegetarian finch (?)
Elliot’s storm petral
Wimbrel
Frigate birds
Tropic bird
Brown noddy tern

Other cool things:
Green turtle and tracks on the beach
Stripped dolphin
Common dolphin

Champion Island –

Birds:
Floreana mockingbird (very rare)

Other cool things:
Parrot fish
Chocolate chip sea star
King angelfish
Yellow tailed razor surgeon fish
White tipped shark
Sting ray
Many other fish…..
Galapagos sea lion


Isabella Island – Turtle Rearing Facility

Birds:
Wimbrel
Galapagos flamingo
Black neck stilt
Common gallinule
White cheeked pintail duck
Smooth billed ani
Galapagos mockingbird (many)
Small billed ground finch
Medium billed ground finch

Other cool things:
Lava lizard
Marine iguana
Large green dragonfly
Paper wasp (and nest)

Sunday, January 28, 2007

Espanola Island - January 28, 2007

Today we explored two parts of Espanola Island, Punta Suarez and Gardner Bay. Espanola is one of the oldest islands in the Galapagos archipelago and its volcanic origin is obvious by the kinds of rocks that we found there. The marine iguanas here are a different species than the marine iguanas we saw on North Seymour Island. Instead of being jet black they have have red and and green coloration. Today we also saw our first Nazca boobies (including chicks of various ages) and got a good sighting of the one hawk species that is found on the Galapagos.

After lunch and a short lecture by our on-board National Geographic explorer, Sylvia Earle, we jumped on the Zodiacs and headed to the beautiful white beach of Gardner Bay where we did some snorkeling. The water wasn't as calm as it had been earlier in the day but it was still fun and we got a chance to see some beautiful fish.

Weather:
Sunny: 80-85 F; winds variable
Water temperature: 70 F


Birds:
Elliot's Storm petral
Red-billed tropic bird
Galapagos dove
Espanola mockingbird
Cactus finch
Warbler finch
Nazca booby
Magnificent frigate bird
Lava heron
Yellow-crowned night heron
American oystercatcher
Galapagos hawk

Mammals:
Galapagos sea lions

Other cool things:
Espanola marine iguanas
Sally lightfoot crabs
Pacific green sea turtle
Hermit crab
Pencil-spinned sea urchin
Numerous fish which I haven’t had time to look up yet

Saturday, January 27, 2007

Baltra and North Seymour Islands - January 27, 2007

The name "Galapagos" comes from the early Spanish explorers of the islands. They noted in their journals that many of the large tortises had shells in the shape of saddles. The Spanish word for saddle is, galapagos.

We arrived in Guayaquil, Ecuador at 11:30 pm on Friday night after our wonderful day in the Everglades and were greeted by the Lindblad-National Geographic Expeditions team at the airport. We had to wait for about 50 other expedition travelers to get through customs and baggage claim so it was after midnight by the time we arrived at the hotel. Everything was very well organized and we were greeted by the hotel staff with cool towels and tropical fruit juice.

This morning we awoke to another urban sunrise, had a light breakfast, and then got on a bus back to the airport to catch our flight to the island of Baltra in the Galapagos.

The Galapagos islands are about 600 nautical miles off the coast of Ecuador. The flight took about an hour and a half. Once we arrived we were efficiently loaded onto waiting buses and driven to a dock where we got on inflatable Zodiac boats and transported to our new home, the Polaris.

After a safety drill and some lunch we picked up anchor and headed for our first excursion to North Seymour Island which is only about 6 nautical miles from Baltra Island. The primary attraction of North Seymour Island at this time of year is that it serves as a home to breeding populations of frigate birds. We walked a short 1.5 mile loop path that took us through a rocky terrain initially and then along a sandy beach. It was a short hike but it took several hours because there was wildlife to see every few steps! What is particularly amazing about the Galapagos islands is that the wildlife is completely without fear. We practically tripped over sea lions in the well-marked walking path and the blue-footed boobies carried on only inches away from us as if we weren't even there! It was definitely sensory overload. I could have spent the whole day watching one pair of birds. I've posted some pictures which you can see by following the link to CB's Pretty Good Photos.

We are beginning to get to know some of our fellow passengers. It is quite a mixed lot but, not too surprising, includes a lot of scientists/biologists. Everyone seems to be enjoying themselves. The boat itself is quite comfortable, the food is excellent, and the staff have been very welcoming.

The coffee in Ecuador is fantastic. Very strong and rich in flavor. Makes my Dunkin Donut coffee I hunted down with a GPS unit yesterday seem weak as dishwater in comparison!

Tonight we set course for Espanola Island.

Weather:
Partly cloudy, 80 F, variable winds

Birds sited today:
Brown pelican
Blue-footed booby
Magnificent frigate bird
Great frigate bird
Lava gull
Swallow-tailed gull
Brown noddy
Ruddy turnstone
Sanderling
Small ground finch

Mammals:
Galapagos sea lion

Reptiles:
Marine iguana
Land iguana
Galapagos lava lizard

Friday, January 26, 2007

River of Grass - January 26, 2007

"I believe that life should be lived so vividly and so intensely that thoughts of another life, or of a longer life, are not necessary." -- Marjory Stonement Douglas, conservationist

We arrived in Miami the night before our flight to Ecuador as a precaution against winter travel delays. We stayed at the Miami International Airport hotel which is conveniently right in the airport. The room was quite comfortable and quiet. In the morning we were greeted with sunrise over an urban landscape.

With a full day to spend in Miami we rented a car and headed off to the Everglades. Just for fun we rented a Garmin GPS unit for the car. First destination? Dunkin Donuts for coffee. We could have spent the rest of the day navigating to every Dunkin Donuts in the greater Miami area...maybe next visit.

It took us about 45 minutes to get to the entrance of Everglades National Park. Because of time constraints we decided to visit Royal Palm which was only a few miles from the Visitor Center. We walked along the Anihinga boardwalk and the Gumbo Limbo trail. The boardwalk was packed with people but also with birds and alligators. The ratio of wildlife sighted per meter walked was fantastic!

We can thank Marjory Stoneman Douglas for the very existence of the Everglades. Douglas was the "first lady of conservation" and was largely responsible for saving the Everglades from certain destruction due to urbanization. She was the person who first referred to the Everglades as the "River of Glass."

Follow the link to CB's Pretty Good Photos to see today's pictures.

Weather:
Sunny and dry; 60-70 F; winds 10-15 mph out of the West

Bird sightings:
Turkey vulture
Black vulture
Double-crested cormorant
White ibis (immature)
Wood stork
Anihinga
Great blue heron
Great egret
Little blue heron
Tricolored heron
Green heron
Northern waterthrush
Northern parula
Northern mockingbird
Blue-gray gnatcatcher
Purple gallinule
American redstart
Loggerhead shrike
Kestral
Osprey

Other wildlife:
Some nice butterflies
American alligator
Turtle

Monday, January 1, 2007

Happy New Year !

Hope that 2007 finds everyone healthy and happy. I'm going to use this space to share photos and accounts of my cycling and traveling adventures. It's going to be a great year!

I've posted some photos on-line using Google's Picasa Web Album service. Just follow the link to CB's Pretty Good Photos.